Actives & Active Cosmetics
Topical skin actives are the ingredients in a cream that have been scientifically proven to have a therapeutic effect on the epidermis and dermis. All these actives have been studied. The secret of an effective cream lies in its formulation. The higher the concentration of active ingredient, the better the skin result.
- 1. High percentage of actives
- 2. Reduction of the horn layer
- 3. Actives can penetrate easily thanks to new technology liposomes as transportation vehicles for actives
- 4. Biochemical Cell stimulation thanks to new Technology peptides communicating with cells
- 5. Fundamentally increasing skin hydration
- 6. No skin health without UVA + UVB
- 7. Unique ßeta-endorphins
- 8. No natural ingredients without preservatives
- 9. Centella Asiatica
- 10. Requires training & guiding
RégimA’s principles
- High percentage of actives
Read more about Maximum Performance and find out which actives have been selecte for every single product, in the product section.
- Reduction of the horn layer
AHAs & BHAs
- Alpha Hydroxy Acids are water soluble only.
AHAs are better used on thickened, sun-damaged, ageing or scarred skins where breakouts are not a problem. Natural unbuffered AHAs provide more free acids, are more easily absorbed, provide enhanced rapid healing and less irritation.
- Lactic Acid – AHA
Is the mildest and most effective AHA available and is derived from milk or of plant origin. It is generally recognized that lactic acid is the best performing hydroxy acid and it is therefore a first choice of RégimA. Of all AHAs and BHAs, lactic is one of the most skin friendly and exhibits excellent cell renewal activities. Lactic exhibits additional properties as well, it moisturizes and possesses the ability to increase ceramide levels. Lactates are safe and mild and can achieve a significant skin lightening effect.
Lactates work synergistically with Vitamin C with a reported skin lightening result. Formulating at a lower pH, as with the strictly NATURAL acids, there is an increased effectiveness in lightening with better penetration and exfoliating action.
- Malic Acid – AHA
Derived from apples and is considered to be both an alfa and beta hydroxi acid. For this property it can be used on all skin types without causing any special irritation issues (beta hydroxyacids penetrate quickly in the pilosebaceous follicle with antisceptic, antiphlogistic, keratolytic and sebum-regulating action). It is also a natural moisturizer, absorbing hydration from the dermis and transporting it to the epidermis. It has a non aggressive exfoliating, antioxidant and protective action against free radicals.
- Has AHA and BHA action, so particularly beneficial for oily skins
- Regenerative cutaneous cellular activity
- Peeling activity
- Improves skin texture, smoothing
- Smoothes fine lines and wrinkles
- Stimulates collagen synthesis
- Re-elastisizing
- Citric Acid – AHA
Alfa and ßeta hydroxyacids extracted from citrus fruit with a regulating function on irregular pigmentation.
- Has AHA and BHA action, so particularly beneficial for oily skins
- Skin Lightening, evens out Pigmentation
- Increased cell turnover
- Stimulates collagen production
- Increased thickness
- Stimulates collagen synthesis
- Re-elastisizing
- Peach, Raspberry and Apple Extract
This complex incorporates the powerful anti-tyrosinase effect of Peach tree leaves, and the skin lightening activity of raspberry and apple, thanks to the presence of organic acids such as citric, malic and tartaric acids. The combined effects of these actives have an overall lightening action, brightening the skin, while assisting with regenerative cutaneous cellular activity and fighting the ageing process. The complex also exhibits a mild exfoliative action, smoothing the skin’s surface and assisting with even desquamation
- Lactic Acid – AHA
- Beta Hydroxy Acid is lipid (oil) soluble.
This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore which contains sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside the pore. Beta hydroxy acid is better used on oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads.
- Salicylic Acid - BHA
From the willow tree Beta Hydroxy acid exfoliates and decongests within the sebaceous pore. While BHA’s penetrate deeper into the pore than AHA’s, it can be less irritating than AHA’s. This is due to BHA's relation to aspirin. Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) has anti-inflammatory properties and the BHA’s, salicylic acid, is derived from aspirin and on the skin, retains some of its same anti-inflammatory benefits. Perfect, well tolerated treatment for congested skins.
- Malic Acid – AHA
Derived from apples and is considered to be both an alfa and beta hydroxi acid. For this property it can be used on all skin types without causing any special irritation issues (beta hydroxyacids penetrate quickly in the pilosebaceous follicle with antisceptic, antiphlogistic, keratolytic and sebum-regulating action). It is also a natural moisturizer, absorbing hydration from the dermis and transporting it to the epidermis. It has a non aggressive exfoliating, antioxidant and protective action against free radicals.
- Has AHA and BHA action, so particularly beneficial for oily skins
- Regenerative cutaneous cellular activity
- Peeling activity
- Improves skin texture, smoothing
- Smoothes fine lines and wrinkles
- Stimulates collagen synthesis
- Re-elastisizing
- Citric Acid – AHA
Alfa and ßeta hydroxyacids extracted from citrus fruit with a regulating function on irregular pigmentation.
- Has AHA and BHA action, so particularly beneficial for oily skins
- Skin Lightening, evens out Pigmentation
- Increased cell turnover
- Stimulates collagen production
- Increased thickness
- Stimulates collagen synthesis
- Re-elastisizing
- Salicylic Acid - BHA
- Free Acid Availability?
RégimA only uses Natural acids so the free acid value is high and is shown in the naturally very low pH. Pure Natural acids are naturally stable (no chemical intervention is required), they are the most biodegradable and efficient with the most rapid absorption.
- What does it mean if a peel claims to be buffered?
Stabilising / buffering chemicals are used in synthetic peels to bring the pH up to around 3. These chemicals used in buffered formulations are usually what cause rapid or excessive peeling – eg. ammonium hydroxide (drain cleaner). RégimA does not buffer peels.
- Alpha Hydroxy Acids are water soluble only.
- Actives can penetrate easily thanks to new technology liposomes as transportation vehicles for actives
- Biochemical Cell stimulation thanks to new Technology peptides communicating with cells, thus producing new collagen, elastin & hyaluronic acid (= 3 main skin essentials for youth)
- Fundamentally increasing skin hydration
- No skin health without UVA + UVB
SUNSCREEN COMPLEX Uvinul A Plus, Tinosorb S & Uvinul T150
Uvinul A Plus – Sunscreen active
- Photostable organic UVA filter
- Covers long-wavelength UVA radiation
Tinosorb S – Sunscreen active
- Photostable broad Spectrum UV filter
- UV filter booster
- UV filter stabiliser
Uvinul T150 – Sunscreen active
- Very photostable
- High absorption UVB filter
- Exhibits water resistance
SPF, the higher the better?
The consumer needs to be made aware that they should look for products not just with SPF but the product must state UVA and UVB and should be Colipa tested. Colipa is the extra critical UVA.
Warning:Sunscreens with very high SPFs (50 or higher) offer the promise of longer protection, but in real life, they don't work any better than a SPF 15 to 30. A product with an SPF of 15 blocks about 93 percent of the sun's UVB rays, an SPF 50 protects against about 98 percent. A major problem is that high-SPF products also tempt one to stay out in the sun longer, which increases the risk of skin damage. High-SPF products also contain greater amounts of sun-blocking ingredients, chemicals, than low SPF sunscreens. These ingredients may pose health risks. It is better to use a sunscreen with SPF of 15 to 30 and reapply more often.
In real life, people apply one-fifth the amount of sunscreen used in the laboratory SPF tests (Autier 2003, Azurdia 2001, Reich 2009). This means that someone who applies one-fourth as much sunscreen as in the SPF test gets just SPF 2.3 protection from an SPF 30 product. SPF 100 becomes just SPF 3.2. The fact that people use less sunscreen than recommended is not an argument for using even higher SPF products to compensate. Higher SPF products produce small increases in real-world SPF. But even this small change allows sunbathers to stay in the sun longer – and absorb more overall radiation – before a sunburn sends them indoors. In the process, the substantially greater amounts of sunscreen chemicals in higher SPF products can penetrate the skin and lead to much higher internal exposures to potentially hazardous compounds. The user is left with a burn and a significantly higher “body burden” of sunscreen chemicals.
What’s wrong with high SPF? Theoretically, applying SPF 100 sunscreen allows beachgoers to bare their skin to sunshine a hundred times longer before causing the skin to burn. One would therefore assume that someone who would normally redden in 30 minutes could remain in the sun for 50 hours before a burn would appear. But for high-SPF sunscreens, theory and reality are two different things. Studies have found that users of high-SPF sunscreens have similar or even higher exposures to harmful UV rays than people relying on lower SPF products as they trust the product too much, stay in the sun longer with a single application and get burned when the product’s chemicals break down, wash off or rub off on clothes and towels. Armed with a false sense of security, they extend their time in the sun well past the point when users of low-SPF products would. The following are the very latest FDA regulations:-
NO MORE SPF 100: Often, people grab whatever sunscreen is labelled with the highest SPF and assume it's the best protection out there. It was that misleading fact that sparked the FDA to make "SPF 50+" the highest rating allowed on a product. Why? According to the American Academy of Dermatology, an SPF 15 product blocks 93 percent of UV rays, SPF 30 blocks 97 percent, and SPF 50 blocks 98%, but once you go up to SPF 100 that number stays at 98%..
Most people wrongly focus solely on the SPF factor within a product when deciding what would be the best choice of skin protection. SPF means “sun protection factor” and refers only to protection against UVB radiation, which causes burning, inflammation and damage of the skin which is all visible to the naked eye. It has nothing to do with UVA radiation that penetrates deep into the skin, accelerates skin ageing, “the silent killer”, as it can cause skin cancer. This UVA burning is not visible. The SPF statement is only a measure of how well the sunscreen deflects UVB rays. Also consider that SPF ratings are calculated under perfect laboratory conditions with the volunteer applying the correct amount of product. Other ingredients within sunscreens are very important natural protectors such as Vit C.
Since the introduction of sunscreens and sunblocks skin cancer rates began to climb and not fall. For example, melanoma rates doubled from 6 to 13 per 100,000 people since 1973.
Watch this video by the artist Thomas Leveritt highlighting the importance of UV-protection. “How the sun sees you.”
The video says: “everyone’s born with good skin pretty much”. So what went wrong with ageing? Bad sun exposure habits cause more freckles, wrinkles, ageing spots and potentially much worse. The ultraviolet camera shows the people of all ages and ethnicities what sits under the surface and clearly shows the protecting impact of wearing sunscreen. Wrinkles may feel gracious, but cancer not at all!
Wear that sunscreen: all year long! “That’s it!”.
- Unique ßeta-endorphins
Liposomes deliver a ßeta-Endorphin Stimulating Complex, a new technology ingredient with unique action, producing a sense of wellbeing on application, leaving the skin feeling smoothed, firmer, refreshed, moisturised with improved radiance. Promotes skin regeneration and anti-wrinkle activity
- Produces a sense of wellbeing
- Anti-inflammatory
- Powerful Anti-oxidant action
- Moisturising
- Skin Protecting
- Reduces wrinkle depth
- Skin firming effect
- Skin smoothing effect
- No natural ingredients without preservatives
PRESERVATIVES are necessary for product safety.
- Water-based skin care products f.ex. have a 3-5 day shelf life if left unpreserved. Without preservatives, not a single cosmetic product with any level of activity would last longer than 3 days on the shelf before presenting with microbial infection.
- Certain essential oils. The problem is that they almost have no effect as a preservative in products that contain a higher percentage of natural ingredients which need to be preserved for a longer term. The percentage preserving ingredients must also be high in order to have any desired effect, at least 3% per preserving ingredient. Too high percentage of essential oils may irritate the skin,
- RégimA products contain Phenoxyethanol combined with Caprylyl Glycol = widely in the cosmetics industry. It is a glycol ether, which is synthesized to be a "nature identical" compound mimicking the same properties, function and structure as the naturally derived analogue which occurs in roses and certain other plants. It is in no way similar to ethanol alcohol.
- Centella Asiatica
RégimA incorporates Nano Centella Asiatica, Nano Boswellia, Nano Olive, renowned for their anti-ageing and healing properties, with Nano Platinum, together aiding in the rebuilding of compromised aspects of ageing skin, supporting the cell's ability to replenish more effectively whilst helping stimulation of collagen and elastin.
Centella Asiatica Extract + Nano-Centella Extract
A renowned wound-healing plant, exhibits antioxidant properties and a powerful anti-inflammatory action. Centella is known for its ability to influence the inflammatory process in wound healing.
Centelastin (RégimA Trademark)
A proprietary RégimA blend containing Centella Asiatica extract and several other hi-tech ingredients. It includes a peptidic compound which is able to protect the skin components (such as collagen) from external aggressions and to maintain the metabolic activities of the exposed cells. Treatment with Centelastin will both prevent and repair damage, allowing the skin to remain healthy, firm and beautiful. The complex acts in several different ways for maximum efficiency:
- Anti-wrinkle - Deep wrinkles, smoothness
- Revitalisation - On the cellular level, increased Sirtuin production
- Sensitive skin - Soothing, free-radical protection, inflammation control
- Anti-glycation
- Protects from UV Induced Sun Damage, DNA protection,anti-photoageing
- Body firming - Increased Collagen production, Contraction of the extra-cellular matrix
- Requires training & guiding